Best New Menswear Coming Out of Japan

Khoki leaves collaborative handwork visible in its menswear, allowing patching, embroidery and construction to carry the identity instead of a logo.

Auralee begins with exceptional fabric and turns it into calm, precise clothing whose quality becomes clearest through repeated wear.

ssstein builds tension into minimal clothing through elongated proportions, shifted seams and controlled volume rather than decorative detail.

Graphpaper treats shirts, trousers and coats as daily uniforms, using exact proportions and materials to make basic categories feel considered.

Ancellm distresses and dyes familiar clothes with enough control that the wear looks integrated into the design rather than applied afterward.

Kota Gushiken combines demanding knit technique with portraits, jokes and personal memories, creating some of Tokyo's most intelligent sweaters.

Soshiotsuki revisits Japanese tailoring through dramatic shoulders, wrapped waists and historical references, but the wit prevents the clothes from becoming reverent.

Yoshiokubo integrates athletic construction and movement into runway menswear, producing technical ideas that make sense once the body is moving.

Kaptain Sunshine refines military and outdoor classics through strong Japanese fabrics and proportion, improving the originals without pretending to reinvent them.

A.Presse edits vintage menswear with ruthless precision, changing fabric, cut and finish just enough to remove the costume element.