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Creative Directors With the Hardest Jobs in Fashion
Great houses, ugly balance sheets and impossible expectations. We are watching these jobs.
1.
Matthieu Blazy — Chanel
Blazy takes over fashion's most scrutinized house and has to introduce change without damaging the product clarity that keeps Chanel enormous.
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2.
Pierpaolo Piccioli — Balenciaga
Piccioli must follow Demna at Balenciaga without defining his tenure only as a correction; elegance alone will not solve the business problem.
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3.
Maria Grazia Chiuri — Fendi
Chiuri returns to Fendi with a century of Roman history, several product categories and a need to make the house feel coherent again.
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4.
Michael Rider — Celine
Rider inherits the highly specific Celine built by Hedi Slimane, leaving almost no neutral ground between continuity and a visible break.
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5.
Sarah Burton — Givenchy
Burton must rebuild Givenchy's identity without leaning too heavily on Audrey Hepburn, Alexander McQueen or her own long history at another house.
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6.
Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez — Loewe
McCollough and Hernandez replace a designer with a cult following at Loewe, while proving that two established authors can speak through one house.
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7.
Glenn Martens — Maison Margiela
Martens takes on Margiela, where literal references to deconstruction are easy and a genuinely new interpretation is exceptionally difficult.
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8.
Demna — Gucci
Demna must restore Gucci's desire and commercial scale without turning the house into Balenciaga in different colors or replaying an earlier Gucci era.
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9.
Jonathan Anderson — Dior
Anderson is responsible for both men's and women's Dior, requiring him to redesign an entire commercial universe while maintaining couture-level expectations.
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10.
Louise Trotter — Bottega Veneta
Trotter has to preserve Bottega Veneta's craft and desirability after Blazy while finding an idea beyond the quiet-luxury language he perfected.
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